2006 Tercero Grenache/Mourvedre Rose

18 09 2009

Tercero Rose 2006

2006 Tercero Grenache/Mourvedre Rose
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

Wine Rating: 88

Uncorked: 2009.09.11 Dinner on the Deck – served with grilled salmon & shrimp
I’ve been drinking several of the wines I discovered on my visit this summer in the Santa Ynez Valley. Some of the wines won’t find their way into these reviews for several years, but at least a case of the wine that came home with me is intended to be enjoyed in these final days of summer and early fall.

So there have been several notes about Larry Schaffer’s Tercero Wines. I have to say, this is a winemaker to watch out for. He is working magic with the fruit of the Santa Ynez Valley (with is a treasure to begin with), bringing a purity and clarity to wine that is pretty unique. His wines are an extension of the vineyard — good fruit into the process, tending it carefully, and bringing to the glass a wonderful sip of the Valley itself. Seriously — I taste the Santa Ynez Valley in every sip of these wines. But it’s not old musty “terroir” — it is the freshness and life of the vineyards and valley. Combine that purity and place with a luxurious feel in the mouth, and you’ve got Larry’s wines.

This wine is one of the first two wines that Larry Schaffer made. If he weren’t so ernest and honest, I wouldn’t believe him. This wine tastes like it was made by an experienced master. Yet it is fresh in style and exudes accessibility. It’s no surprise, then, that this is the third or fourth wine from Tercero that I have written about in the past few weeks. If you haven’t figured it out yet, I REALLY like these wines! The only reason I’d tell you to not go buy every bottle you can find (mostly from the winemaker himself — they’re small production and not yet widely available), it would be because I’m selfish and want to drink it all myself. It’s also an amazing bargain. GO BUY THIS WINE. On with the tasting notes…

Soft in color. texture, and flavors. Not wimpy, but gentle with a good backbone. Very well balanced in the nose and mouth. Citrus, honey, and strawberry on the nose. Cashmere feeling in the mouth with fresh summer fruit flavors and firm acid that make for a wonderfully balanced, easy drinking, summer wine. Wonderful to drink on the deck on a warm afternooon. Went very well with grilled salmon and shrimp.

$12.00 (special pricing right now for like $10) purchased from the winery

Tercero Wines Website





Home

14 08 2009

Dinner Toast Styled

Wine is a luxury of being home.

Sure, I have my cellar in my home and I am writing this sitting on the front porch of my home while sipping the remains of the 2008 Tercero Grenache Blanc Camp 4 that I opened yesterday (it has only gotten better!).  We share simple family meals with a glass of wine, or have extravagant dinner parties where wine and fellowship are shared in abundance.  But that’s not my point.

Wine is not the product of nomads.  It takes years for a newly planted grapevine to produce enough fruit to make wine.  The vines need tending, the fruit needs harvesting, and the juice needs a place to undergo its transformation into wine.  Fermentation, racking, aging, bottling, storing — these are all activities that require settlement.  One of the markers that researchers and archeologists use to determine when bands of people moved from wandering to being settled is the presence of viticulture and winemaking.

20090730-021 Vineyard

Certainly wine (of sorts) can be made by nomads who find fruit, pick it, crush it, and allow natural fermentation to happen as they continue along their journey.  But viticulture, growing grapes to produce wine, simply can’t be done on the move.

In the Biblical story of the flood (with Noah and the ark), one of the first things Noah was instructed to do when the water receded was to plant a vineyard.  Those vines were a strong symbol that Noah and his kin were no longer displaced; they were now home.

The implications of wine being a product of settlement, security, having a “place” and land, are many and rich.

While I will no doubt wax on profusely about all of this at another time, I want to end here by suggesting a connection between this concept and one of my newest favorite wineries:  Saarloos & Sons.  They are making some wonderful wines and serve them in this home built in 1886 which they call simply, “House.”

Saarloos & Sons House

Each of the wines that Keith Saarloos (son) makes is connected to stories of home – stories from the vineyards where the wines had their birth as well as stories of family and ancestors whose memories and legacies are captured and honored in the naming of their bottlings.  Their family creed says it all:  “We live to honor those that have come before us, and to prepare the way for those yet to come.”  An example of their somewhat odd wine naming is their “Purper Hart.”  Not a misspelling.  It’s the Dutch translation of “Purple Heart.”  The wine (an amazing Syrah) honors John Saarloos, a member of their family who received the Purple Heart for his service in WWII.

These wines, and all wines, are connected to the land, to the people who make them, and to those who delight in drinking them.

You see… it’s about home.





A Lesson on Bias: Fess Parker Winery

4 08 2009

Fess Parker

I confess that I have had a bias against Fess Parker wines for many years. The winery itself is gorgeous, nestled in the midst of mature vineyards along a picturesque winding road in the Santa Ynez Valley. On one of my early visits to the winery (early 1990s) we met Fess Parker himself, and were pleased to have “Davy Crocket” (or “Daniel Boone” if you prefer) autograph one of his bottles of Pinot Noir for us. It was quaint, though the facade of a skilled Hollywood production was obvious. This guy knew how to market wine… even wine that was quite unremarkable. Over the next few years, the number of tour buses visiting the winery increased, the array of products available in the tasting room eclipsed the varieties of wines, and the wines themselves… well, they remained unremarkable. So I stopped visiting Fess Parker Winery, and probably raised my nose a bit every time I drove by on my way to one of the lesser known wineries up the road.

Fess Parker Winery sm

That was until last week. One of the area’s most interesting new wine makers, Larry Schaffer, met us for a private tasting of his Tercero Wines (see yesterday’s review of his Outlier Gewurtztraminer). I came to find out that Larry is on the wine making staff of Fess Parker Winery. That got my interest. Larry spoke very highly of Blair Fox, the head winemaker at Fess Parker, and gave me a different prespective on the resources that are available to the wine making team as part of a larger enterprise. They have the luxury of selecting only certain barrels to include in their finest wines — a reality not available to the smallest producers. They have the resources to have a wine making staff, not just one winemaker and one palate shaping the wine.

Still, what made me visit Fess Parker Winery again was its accessibility to less well-trained wine consumers… I took my mother-in-law. She likes wine out of a box. White Zinfandel is her wine of choice. She wouldn’t like Tercero’s complex flavors or the big flavors in Beckmen’s juice. Of all the wineries in the valley, the one bearing the mark of the ‘coon skin cap is the one she’ll like the best.

I had set up a private tasting at Fess Parker with Larry Schaffer, assistant winemaker, to guide our experience. The first wine was a Santa Barbara County Chardonnay. I almost skipped the pour. Larry’s expressive face told me to try it. The wine had a clean, elegant aroma that got my attention. THIS is Fess Parker’s wine? I sipped and was instantly humbled. This is a new kind of wine from Fess Parker. Thinking it might be a fluke, I was still reluctant as we continued the tasting. Boy was I wrong. This team of winemakers is doing something really interesting — they are exploiting the resources available to them to create some really fine wine.

We bought two bottles — I’d have bought more if we weren’t restricted by our need to take it home on an airplane. The chardonnay would be a gift for the couple taking care of my mother-in-law’s dog (nice gift!), and I’d keep the wine that changed my mind about this winery — the 2005 Syrah “The Big Easy.” They have captured some of Santa Ynez Valley’s finest Syrah character in that bottle. See some of my impressions in the review below.

Oh, and fortunately I’ve still got that autographed bottle on display in my wine cellar at home.

Fess Parker Winery Website





2008 Tercero Wines “The Outlier” Santa Barbara County

1 08 2009

This is the first of many coming posts from an amazing three days in the Santa Ynez Valley.  I had the privilege to share wine and conversation with several amazing wine makers, including a few of whom I think are THE up-and-coming wine makers of the region.

It was a long drive home through LA traffic, but I’m now sitting on my Favorite Mother-in-Law’s back patio overlooking Long Beach and out over the Pacific Ocean.  It is night time, and the city lights twinkle right up to the coastline.  Next to me is my wonderful wife (who lovingly endured my endless conversations and wine passion of the last three days), and in my hand is an amazing glass of wine.  It, my friends, will be the first review from this extraordinary excursion…

 

Tercero 2008 The Outlier

2008 Tercero Wines “The Outlier” Santa Barbara County (Gewurztraminer)
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

Wine Rating: 91

Uncorked: 2009.08.01
Sitting on the Davis patio after a great wine tasting adventure

Unusual dry Gewurztraminer. On the nose there is a nice balance of tart fruit, minerals, and floral aromas. It is a surprise in the mouth — very bright and clean, crisp and tart fruit flavors, hints of spice, subtle floral notes, and lots of minerals and earthiness. The flavors open up in the middle of the mouth with a wash of opulence – almost suede-like in the feel. Much more body in the mouth than expected. The finish continues through the bright finish. Excellent acid and clean tanins. Balance and elegance are the words forthis surprisingly delicious wine. I didn’t expect this from a Gewurztraminer. Will easily become a summer favorite.

$18.00 from Larry Schaffer himself

Tercero Wines Website





CTS Wine Ministry 2009 – Day 1

13 07 2009

Wine Ministry Logo

Monday, July 6, 2009
Theme: Opening Up the Palate

Wine Ministry at CTS – a wonderful experience of community, theology, and pretty fine wine. Everyone is welcome and the circle always has room for more. As we gathered on the first evening of Wine Ministry, the selections were broad in order to open our palates for the week. But this first night also included two wines from Canada’s Niagara Peninsula in honor of Stephen, whom I knew would be attending the tastings. Here is the flight of wines for the evening:

1 – 2008 Total Depravity Riesling [Ohio/Washington] $priceless
2 – 2007 Clean Slate Riesling Shared by Stephen [Germany] $9.99
3 – 2007 Total Depravity Pinot Noir [Ohio/California] $priceless
4 – 2002 Pillitteri Estates Gamay Noir Family Reserve [Canada] $32.99
5 – 2002 Kacaba Vineyards Meritage [Canada] $36.99

For a listing of all wines from the CTS Wine Ministry 2009 tastings, click here.





CTS Wine Ministry 2009 – Overview

13 07 2009

Wine Ministry

It was a great week at CTS with a community of friends, some good theological thoughts, and plenty of wine flowing. Thanks to all who participated in the fellowship of the overflowing chalice!

I will post a bit more information and reviews of each of the wines we tasted, but for now here is a listing of the four tastings we shared. Leave a note on this or the other postings to let me know your favorite wines as well as your memories of the week we shared. Check back soon for the wine notes…

Monday, July 6, 2009
Theme: Warming Up the Palates

1 – 2008 Total Depravity Riesling [Ohio/Washington] $priceless
2 – 2007 Clean Slate Riesling Shared by Stephen [Germany] $9.99
3 – 2007 Total Depravity Pinot Noir [Ohio/California] $priceless
4 – 2002 Pillitteri Estates Gamay Noir Family Reserve [Canada] $32.99
5 – 2002 Kacaba Vineyards Meritage [Canada] $36.99

Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Theme: Vertical Tasting of California Rhone Varietals

1 – 2005 Zaca Mesa Syrah [California] $23.00
2 – 2004 Zaca Mesa Syrah [California] $23.00
3 – 2006 Gainey Vineyard Syrah [California] $24.00
4 – 2005 Gainey Vineyard Syrah [California] $24.00
5 – 2004 Gainey Vineyard Syrah Limited Selection [California] $38.00
6 – 2002 Gainey Vineyard Syrah [California] $22.00

Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Theme: The Variety of White Wines – Find One for Your Palate

1 – 2008 Black Mountain Pinot Grigio Shared by Stephen [California] $5.99
2 – 2008 Greenhough Sauvignon Blanc [New Zealand] $15.99
3 – 2007 Shoo Fly Buzz Cut (white blend) Shared by Lisa [Australia] $10.99
4 – 2006 Sonoma Vineyards Chardonnay (unoaked) [California] $14.99
5 – 2007 Newton Chardonnay Napa/Sonoma Counties [California] $18.99
6 – 2007 Domaine Pichot Vouvray Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette [France] $14.99
7 – NV Botter Prosecco Vino Spumante [Italy] $14.99
8 – 2008 Ceretto I Vignaioli Santo Stefano Moscato d’Asti [Italy] $24.99

Bonus Wine:
9 – 2008 Project Happiness Chardonnay Shared by Bryan [California] $5.99

Preview of Thursday’s blending seminar:
10 – 2003 Clos du Bois Marlstone (Bordeaux style blend) [California] $39.99

Thursday, July 9, 2009
Theme: Bordeaux-Style Blending Seminar

Prelude
1 – 2008 Total Depravity Riesling [Ohio/Washington] $priceless
2 – 2008 Muga Rioja Rose [Spain] $12.99
3 – 2005 Celler de Capçanes Montsant Mas Donis Barrica Shared by ??? [Spain] $12.99
4 – 2006 Domaine “la Garrigue” Côtes du Rhône [France] $15.99
5 – 2007 Layer Cake Primitivo Zinfandel Shared by Lisa [Italy] $13.99
6 – 2006 Santa Rita Merlot Reserva Shared by ??? [Chile] $9.99

Samples of Bordeaux-Style Blends from Around the World
7 – 2001 Rosemount Traditional [Australia] $29.99
8 – 2001 Creekside Laura’s Blend Meritage [Canada] $18.99
9 – 2002 Chateau Peyre-Lebade (Rothchild) Bordeaux Haut-Medoc [France] $24.99
10 – 2006 Steltzner Claret [California] $16.99

Blending Wines (components of Bordeaux/Meritage):
11 – 2007 Dry Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (barrel sample) [California] $23.00 (prerelease)
12 – 2007 Dry Creek Vineyards Merlot (barrel sample) [California] $19.00 (prerelease)
13 – 2007 Dry Creek Vineyards Cabernet Franc (barrel sample) [California] not sold retail
14 – 2007 Dry Creek Vineyards Malbec (barrel sample) [California] not sold retail
15 – 2007 Dry Creek Vineyards Petit Verdot (barrel sample) [California] not sold retail

Prize Wine & Finale Tasting:
16 – 2001 Le Sillage de Malartic Bordeaux Pessac-Léognan [France] $29.99

Extra – Just for Fun
17 – NV Riondo Prosecco (with a sliced strawberry in the glass!) [Italy] $12.99





2008 Vintage – Let the Adventure Begin!

1 10 2008

The cellar is alive again!  27 gallons of California juice is now starting its magical journey toward becoming the “2008 vintage.”  It joins last year’s wine that is awaiting bottling as it ages with French oak (using these really cool infusion spirals made by a wine barrel maker).

27 gallons will make about 10 cases (120 bottles) of finished wine.  Vintage 2007 started with 22 gallons and, after multiple “rackings” is down to about 19 gallons of finished wine.  I decided to increase the cellar’s output this year because, well, the 2007 tastes pretty good!  Since I learned a lot along the way, I’m hopeful that 2008 will be even better.

While I have no illusions of creating world-class wine to compete with the Pegau Chateneuf du Pape or Saxum Broken Stones and James Berry laying in the cellar racks, I expect that it will be pretty good “table wine.”  I’ll probably be able to convince friends to give it a taste, too!

Currently undergoing primary fermentation are:

  • 8 gallons Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 7 gallons Merlot
  • 6 gallons Cabernet Franc
  • 6 gallons Pinot Noir

The Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc will eventually become both single varietal wines AND be blended into my own custom “Bordeaux style” wine.  That will be a fun experiment!  I’m hoping that by following the blending traditions of Old World winemakers I will create a finished wine that is better than its individual components.  An “artist’s palate” approach.

The Pinot Noir will fly solo in the end.

So here we go again!  The cellar (and whole basement) is starting to smell a bit like a winery.  I prefer “yeasty” to describe the aroma rather than “stinky.”  My spouse my disagree.  But it does take me back to the fermentation tanks and barrel rooms of Zaca Mesa and Firestone Vineyards that I first visited as a teenager.  My love of wine that started so many years ago is tied to these smells.  It’s a fun adventure to recreate some of that in my own home!

Wish me luck and make your plans now to come to the 2008 release party in about two years!





Wine Blog Paralysis & Wine as Sabbath Enactment

30 08 2008

I love to write.  I’m in a profession that writes a lot.  I write for work, I write for leisure, I write for introspection, I write to stay connected wtih people, I write to provoke thought and conversation.  I like a good computer keyboard and excellent fountain pens — tools for this practice of writing.  So blogging is a natural thing.

But sometimes I get paralyzed by the backlog of things I need to blog about and I end up not writing at all.  I’ve got a bunch of wine reviews from my Wine Ministry tastings at CTS that still need to get posted.  It takes a while to do those — reviewing my notes, carefully writing the review, formatting the entry, finding the label or bottle image, etc.  Sometimes it just doesn’t feel right to write other things with the task list undone.

So I was thinking…  I don’t drink wine everyday, but usually at least two or three nights a week I’ll enjoy a glass — with a meal or just sipping while unwinding from the day.  The “to do list” certainly isn’t done, but the glass of wine is almost an enactment of sabbath.  There is always work to be done, but sabbath is an intentional break from work and opportunity for attentiveness to things other than work.  For some of us the enjoyment and experience of wine is both a symbol and practice of sabbath.

Blogging, wine, and sabbath.  Here’s the connection:  the “need to do” things will always be there.  For most of us, particularly if we have slightest bit of compulsivity in our personalities, those things will get done.  But allowing for the gift of sabbath, a break from the routine of work, will nurture our souls, our minds, our bodies.  So I’ll get the reviews posted, but I’ll also take time to write other ideas, reflections, and musings.  I’ll open that “special occasion” wine just because it’s sabbath.  I’ll also extend the invitation to you to consider sabbath practices in the midst of your worlds of work, tasks, and things needing to get done.  Cheers!





CTS Wine Ministry – Week 1, Day 7

10 08 2008

Sunday at the seminary. For most of us it was a day of church, reading, and writing for our doctoral seminars. It wasn’t bad, then, to gather in the early evening for a fairly light wine tasting. A smaller group still, so we only opened four bottles. The evening was rich with both wine and conversation as our friendships deepen… Friendships with the wine and with each other!

Sunday, July 6, 2008 (week 1, day 7)





CTS Wine Ministry – Week 1, Day 6

10 08 2008

The “faithful remnant” that remained at the seminary over the Fourth of July weekend were treated to some pretty nice wines on this Saturday evening tasting. The hospitality and generosity were overflowing as both Paul and Lisa provided extra wines for the tasting.

In addition to our colleagues from the DMin seminar, we were joined by several family members for this tasting. Our community was enriched with spouses and offspring – though the youngest members were there for the event and conversation rather than the wine! It was a true expression of the community that forms around wine, though, as it was as much about the “community” as it was about the wine on this evening. What a gift.

Having said that, the wines were really good, too! Click the links below, or simply scroll through the blog to read about the wines in this tasting.

Saturday, July 6, 2008 (week 1, day 5)





CTS Wine Ministry – Week 1, Day 5

3 08 2008

We truly became wine snobs today. We poured what we would later give an 87 rating down the drain. We were either arrogant about the wine, or very fatigued. I’ll stick with us just being picky on this Fourth of July!

There are just a handful of us tasting these wines as most folks are away from the seminary campus for the weekend. Their loss – there were a couple of pretty fine wines poured in our glasses this evening.

To read the wine reviews, either scroll through the blog, or click on the name of one of the wines below.

Friday, July 4, 2008 (week 1, day 5)





CTS Wine Ministry: Week 1, Day 4

2 08 2008

Day four of our Wine Ministry wine tasting events. The practice of The Joyful Feast of Wine has really caught on and the community is enjoying the Wine Ministry. This was a good evening to be at the wine tasting!

To read the wine reviews, either scroll down through the blog, or click on the name of the wine to go to that particular wine’s tasting notes.

Thursday, July 3, 2008 (week 1, day 4)





More CTS Wine Ministry Reviews

2 08 2008

I have just posted some more reviews from the recent Wine Ministry during my doctoral seminar at CTS. The wines reviewed were from one of the better days of our tastings…

Wednesday, July 2, 2008 (week 1, day 3)





Wine Ministry – The Wines

13 07 2008

I’m so far behind in writing the tasting notes of these wines!  There were some really wonderful wines we shared over the past couple of weeks.  In addition to the individual wine reviews, I’ll also post a listing of the wines for that particular day.  So far I have posted reviews for the following:

Monday, June 30, 2008

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

More reviews coming soon!





Sixty-Six Bottles of Wine

12 07 2008

Need I say more?

Not right now.  Soon there will be photos (thanks, Stephen!), eventually I’ll get all of the reviews posted, and I’ll have many reflections about our shared Wine Ministry.  The memories of our community, exquisite friendships, rich conversations, and wonderful wines — those are enough for now.  Thanks for the blessings, friends…





[yellow tail] Throwdown!

8 07 2008

[yellow tail]. It’s everywhere. It’s extraordinarily popular. In 2005 this Australian winery produced more than 11 million cases of wine (yes, that’s more than 132,000,000 bottles of wine). There is more of this wine imported into the United States than all of the wines from France combined. More than 2 million glasses of [yellow tail] are consumed in the world every day. With this much wine being sold it simply MUST be good, right?

Wine connoisseurs (aka snobs) refer to [yellow tail] with great disdain. It is the antithesis to good wine. Its chemical aromas and overly sweet, fruity flavors should never grace the inside of a Riedel stem.

But this wine sells! Do we Americans really lack that much discrimination? We don’t really fall for sophisticated marketing, product placement, label design, price point, and market saturation, DO WE??? We would not permit our wine palates to be manipulated by engineered product, WOULD WE??? It is precisely these things as well as the sweet, fruity flavors that have lured consumers that have little or no wine expertise into the uncorking (unscrewing) of countless bottles of [yellow tail]. Did I mention that the makers of this wine add sugar to the wine to make it sweeter?

Ok, so now I’m sounding like a wine snob.

The project at this evening’s wine tasting was a [yellow tail] THROWDOWN. Since it’s the most popular wine in America, let’s see if people really like it when it is compared side by side with other wines. We did a semi-blind tasting. People knew that [yellow tail] was going to be served, they just didn’t know which wine it would be. So there were four wines each served without disclosing what it was. One was [yellow tail] Cabernet Sauvignon. As a control in the experiment, we also served a decent California Cabernet Sauvignon just to show what a Cabernet “should” taste like (which, admittedly, is very subjective). The final two wines were chosen because of their price and wide availability. They are approximately the same price as [yellow tail], but the wine snobs (me) actually drink these bargains, claiming that they are actually really good wines. So here’s the lineup in the order they were actually served:

    2007 [yellow tail] Cabernet Sauvignon
    2005 Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
    2006 Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Reserve
    2006 d’Arenberg The Stump Jump Grenache – Shiraz – Mourvedre

And the winner is? In this order of preference by the esteemed panel of tasters:

    #1 – Avalon Cabernet
    #2 – The Stump Jump
    #3 – Perrin Cotes du Rhone
    #4 – [yellow tail] Cabernet

It is very important to point out, however, that [yellow tail] was the number one choice of three of our tasters. I haven’t decided whether or not they are invited back tomorrow evening. Two others preferred it over the Perrin Cotes du Rhone. It was a close race to first between the Avalon and the Stump Jump. Both were well-liked.

We had four other wines after the blind tasting, also in the under-$10 category. There were some really enjoyable wines, including one in that new eco-friendly cartons with milk carton-like spout. I’ll write reviews of all of the wines from this evening, but to round out this posting the other wines were:

    2006 Bandit Cabernet Sauvignon (the one in the box – Thank you, Stephen!)
    2005 Poliziano Rosse di Montepulciano (yummy!!! Thanks, Cory!)
    2005 Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma County (Pepper! Thanks, Barbara!)
    2006 Marquis Philips Shiraz (we liked it tonight!)

    With a great deal of thanks to our esteemed panel of judges, we must officially dethrone the [yellow tail] from its place of prominence (at least in terms of appeal as a wine). To be sure, some folks really like this wine. Drink it! I hope you’ll discover what you like and truly enjoy it. For those who didn’t care for the [yellow tail], we’ve given literally dozens of alternatives in the under $10 wines that are more than just drinkable – they are actually excellent wines.

    I’m working hard at getting all of the reviews done. There is a lot of wine to review… I promise I’ll get them all posted! I raise my glass to each of you – those who shared these wines tonight, and those who share with us vicariously through this blog…





A Note About Ratings

6 07 2008

Rating wines is absolutely subjective. The points (and even the tasting notes) ascribed to a particular wine are the opinions of the reviewer and reflect the rater’s own tastes, biases, and preferences. I make no claim to be able to give wines an objective tasting, review, or rating. If your palate and tastes are similar to mine then you’ll probably agree with my reviews. If, however, you prefer a different style of wine, you’ll most likely wonder which planet I have visited in order to give a particular score.

I’m good with this diversity of experiences of wine. In fact, I cherish it. But that’s the subject of a different blog post. For now, I want to give a brief summary of what the numbers mean to me. Here is the scale I use when rating wines. It reflects the scale used by most wine reviewers and what you’ll see on store shelves. I think it’s really funny that the scale really begins at 50. But as one who has continued academic study for most of my life, I’m familiar with odd grading/scoring scales… Here it is:

Extraordinary (96-100 points)
Outstanding (90-95)
Very Good to Excellent (85-89)
Good (80-84)
Average (75-79)
Below average (70-74)
Avoid (50-70)





Blessings

5 07 2008

Barukh atah Adonai, Eloheinu, melekh ha-olam
Blessed are You, Lord our God, King of the Universe,

borei p’ri hagafen (Amein)
Who creates the fruit of the vine.  (Amen)

It has been a quiet Saturday at the end of a full week. Some of the blessings of this day and the days of the past week…

  • Attentiveness to practices, particularly hospitality, blessing, and prayer
  • Coffee and a bagel, a sunny morning, and good conversation with Rob and Paul
  • Colleagues in ministry, time to study and learn, a community of inquiry
  • Katie’s giggles that send me, even when I can only hear them on the phone
  • Kerri whose love and support is boundless
  • Seeing friends from Pleasant Hill, and the good people of Gwinnett being good enough to celebrate the occasion with fabulous fireworks
  • Wine Ministry and communities that deepen around the fruit of the vine
  • The terroir of Bordeaux and the Rhone River Valley
  • The terroir that imparts taste and texture in the stories and people I have encountered this week
  • BBT’s laugh
  • Rob’s anticipation of parenthood
  • Prosecco with a slice of ripe strawberry
  • Belly laughing with Mark, Mary, David, Bekah, Matt, Chris, and Paul — the 2006 Waterwheel Memsie might have contributed to the spirit in the room
  • Time to write and things to write about
  • South Carolina peaches
  • The Dekalb Farmers Market and Sherlock’s Wine Merchant
  • Raindrops on my window that now look like shimmering diamonds with the sun shining through them
  • Paul’s Red Wine and Blues song — in process
  • Mudhouse Sabbath by Lauren Winner
  • Domaine de Perilliere Cotes du Rhone

For these and all thy gifts I give thee thanks O Lord.





Wine Ministry at Columbia Seminary – Summer 2008

3 07 2008

 

It’s officially a tradition now.  I prefer to call it a practice.  But whatever we call it, this is now the third incarnation of “Wine Ministry” as part of the Doctor of Ministry program at Columbia Theological Seminary.  Last summer we inaugurated the practice, carried it on in New York City in January of this year, and now we meet again — this time in the upstairs lounge of the Harrington Center each afternoon around 5:00.  It’s not a bad way to transition from a day of study and learning into whatever the evening holds (usually more reading and/or writing).

To be sure it’s a time of drinking wine.  We put together interesting tastings — so far we’ve had big chewy reds, Spanish delights, and the terroir of the Cabernet grape.  Tonight we’ll be sauntering through the Rhone River Valley (and a few other places the lovely Syrah grape has been transplanted).  Tasting notes of each of these wines will come soon.

But this is more than wine.  Wine is simply the practice that facilitates what is really happening.  The community being formed among doctoral students from around the country is what it’s really about.  We laugh heartily, tell stories, and connect with each others’ lives in ways that will be indelible (much like the stains of red wine in the shorts I was wearing last night).  Others bring a bottle of wine or food to share, the circle gets wider, and the feast just happens.  It’s a feast of wonderful tastes and new experiences of wine, it’s a feast of friendship, it’s a feast of lives connecting with one another.  We’re all theologians and pastors, so we talk theology and ministry.  But all that talk is more sublime and insightful when the words are blended with the flavors of Bordeaux and Malbec.

I raise my glass to this gift of time and friendship.  I toast the lives of those with whom I have shared the sacred juice of the vine.  And I even toast the Spirit of God whose presence is as flavorful, complex, and delightful as the wines we have shared.





Wine Ministry NYC

27 01 2008

Wine Ministry Logo

Good friends, good fellowship, and plenty of good wine!  Two weeks in New York City for a doctoral seminar afforded plenty of opportunities to experience Wine Ministry and expand our palates.  We had some great ones and a couple of lousy ones, and even found a couple that Nancy liked!  Plenty of “big reds” to satisfy the stronger mouths, and several more accessible reds for everyone to enjoy.  And a couple of “party for your mouth” wines just to make us smile.

There are lots of wines to review, so I’ll start with the wines that garnered the most enthusiastic reactions from the group that gathered in 17-G…





Vintage 2007… I Hope!

14 10 2007

Pictured below is what might become the 2007 vintage from the WineMinisty Cellar.  No kidding.  While I have done my fair share of CONSUMING wine over the years, I have never actually MADE any wine.  I’ve left the winemaking to the winemakers.  And even now I am under no illusion that I am a “wine maker.”  But I am a sucker.  Let me explain…

My friend Charley has been making wine for many years.  He buys the fresh juice from a local source (it’s actually juice from California), does some kind of voodoo chemistry in his basement, and several months later ends up with wine.  Lots of it.  And it’s actually drinkable.  That was a surprise to me.  And this part is all well and good.  I even told Charley that I’d love to join him sometime in his winemaking adventures.  Here is where the “sucker” part is about to come in…

It’s harvest time for the grapes, and the juice arrived this past week.  And it has to be purchased and fermented right away, otherwise… well, vinegar comes to mind.  Charley presented me with a printout from the webpage of the juice supplier showing me all of the available varietals.  “What do you want to get?”  I thought for a moment, and thinking the process is innocent enough, particularly since it will all happen in Charley’s basement, I gave it a thumbs-up and looked down the list.  Cabernet Saugivnon.  Pinot Noir.  Syrah.  Merlot.  Zinfandel.  On and on the list went.  I’m hooked now.  “I’m interested in the Cab and the Syrah.  What do you think, Charley?”  Here it comes…

Charley said, “I like the reds, but it doesn’t matter much to me.  Whatever they have in stock when you get there will be fine.”

You know those screeching brake sounds you hear in the old Hanna-Barbera cartoons?  That sound went through my brain.  Turns out Charley is going to be out of town for two weeks.  Right when the grape juice is here.  But if I want to get the juice, he’s got the bottles.  Oh, and here are the directions…  No, I can’t just purchase the juice and wait for Master Winemaker Charley to return.  The fermentation must begin.  The stinky, yeasty, musty, messy (and did I mention stinky?) fermentation.  He’ll be back by the time we have to get to the next step.

So here it is…  The 2007 wines from the WineMinistry Cellar:

 Pinot & Chianti  

This is the 2007 Pinot Noir (left) and the 2007 Barbera-Alicante Blend.  About 7 gallons of each.  GALLONS.

  

Cabernet

This is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon.  It’s in a bigger bottle.  There are 8 gallons of this bad boy.  GALLONS.

They are bubbling away doing their primary fermentation.  Yeast is aiding the process.  And making things smell really, well… stinky.

Did I mention that Charley is out of town?

In total we’ve got about 22 GALLONS of grape juice that is now turning into wine.  We’ll lose some as we go through the whole process, draining the clear wine off the must and sediment (that’s why there are extra jugs fermenting along side the big bottles — to be able to make full bottles after we remove the sediment).  If things go as planned, we’ll end up with more than 100 bottles of wine!  Or 100 bottles of vinegar.  We’ll see!

I’ve never done this before, but it is a total kick in the pants.  And watch out — if this stuff is even remotely drinkable, I am certain I will be hooked on this gig.  I won’t even begin to reflect on the metaphors and theological overtones in winemaking — it’s fertile territory!  Especially “fertile” right now… it stinks!  But it’s actually that pleasant “stink” of the cellar room at Zaca Mesa during their winemaking process.  But they’ve got a cool winery.  All I have is a bathroom next to the wine cellar in my basement.  And until I taste this stuff, I’ll not kid myself about being a “winemaker.”  For now I’ll stick with “sucker.”





Martha Stewart Makes Wine (not!)

20 09 2007

 

There has been an announcement in the wine world that Martha Stewart has entered into an agreement with E&J Gallo to bottle wine for her under the label “Martha Stewart Vintage.”  Check out these stories about this news:  Tom Wark’s Fermentation and the San Francisco Chronicle.

 I am fascinated by this collaboration.  This kind of practice in the wine world is nothing new — wine makers make wine for other people’s labels all the time.  The good folks at Trader Joe’s are making a mint off the enormous volume of sales of it’s Charles Shaw wines (aka “Two Buck Chuck”) — wine that is made by the Bronco Wine Company.  The Charles Shaw wines purport to be from Napa (check out the label sometime), but the grapes are actually grown in the much-less-desirable Central Valley of California.  Think Bakersfield.  And the bottle says “Charles Shaw,” not Bronco Wines.  And it would be misleading to assume this only affects “low end” wine and wineries.  Even the biggest name wineries engage in this lucrative practice.  It happens throughout the wine world.

The Martha Stewart announcement provides a helpful lens, though, for some reflection on this practice and its implications beyond the world of wine.  This is rich ground for musing — I love this!  Wine as a commodity.  Wine as a product.  Wine as a pawn in the world of commerce.  The art of winemaking reduced to signatures on a contract.  I can see a new reality TV show in the making… Martha Stewart Vineyard versus Two Buck Chuck.  I’d watch just to see the divas actually drink what’s in the bottles that bear their names!

But there is more to this story than just the raw commerce of it all. There is something about character and the character of wine. The wines labeled “Martha Stewart Vineyard” will NOT be from Martha’s Vineyard (so to speak). The illusion is that they will bear the sophistication of the cashmere sweater and pressed linen napkins of a Martha Stewart afternoon tea. But there is no authenticity. It is a fraud. It lacks integrity. It’s plagiarism — the signature on the artist’s canvas had nothing to do with the creation of the art (even if the art, as in this case, is like mass-produced “Velvet Elvis” prints that can be purchased at any flea market). But it’s intentional — Martha (rather, the Martha Industry) will want her consumers to assume the wine is of her own making.

Perhaps the charitable thing to do would be to wish Martha well, and to join in a chorus of “cheers!” with those who will drink her (er, I mean Gallo’s) wine. But then I myself would be inauthentic.

More thoughts about this later…





Words on Wine

14 09 2007

There are lots of words about wine on the web.  I’m doing my part to add to those missives, though I have to hope that I am adding QUALITY, not just quantity.  There are words reflecting on wine, wine culture, wine production, wine sales, and of course on wines themselves.  Lots of words.

I’m beginning the process of building my collection of links to other wine blogs.  Check out some of the blogs that I’m reading — they’re over there on the right side.  Just don’t decide that you like one of those better than WineMinistry.com!!!  Actually, a couple of things I like about the wine community:

– There are some great writers in the blogosphere, and I love it when people from different walks of life and different perspectives offer their thoughts to the world.

– There are lots of different opinions, and by exposing ourselves to those opinions we gain something (even when we don’t agree).

– There is generally an openness in people who are passionate about wine, and that is refreshing in a culture when we get divided too easily into left-right, either-or, red-white…

– I could go on and on, but the bottom line is that there is some good reading to be had.  Let me know if you’ve got some favorites that aren’t listed here.  I haven’t put all of my favorites up yet, and I am always looking for more…

Enjoy the reading.  Enjoy the community!





Blends: Community in a Bottle?

7 09 2007

Red Wine Art Print by Judi Bagnato

Are “Varietal Wines” a reflection of individualism?  Are “Blends” an embodiment of community? 

A quick wine education:

Varietal Wine.  A varietal wine is one made primarily with a single type of grape.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are a few examples of the plethora of specific grape varieties that are made into wine.  In the U.S. a wine must be made from at least 75% of the primary grape to be labeled with that grape varietal name.  Different grapes have unique flavors and aromas.  A Zinfandel (NOT the pink variety), for example, is characteristically peppery along with its wild fruit flavors.  Sauvignon Blanc is usually herbal with citrus overtones.

Blends.  In contrast to wines made from a single varietal, a blend is made from several different grape types.  There are a couple of different types of blends.  Varietal Combinations are made from two or three grapes and labeled according to the identity of the components:  Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz or Charonnay-Semillion are two popular combinations from Australia.  Another type of blend is the artisan blend which turns the winemaker into artist whose palate includes various types of wines that can be combined into a unique blend with a creative name to match.  “Meritage” is one of these blends that is reflective of the style of winemaking from the Bordeaux region of France.  It is interesting that some of the cheapest wine and some of the most expensive wines are blends.

New World and Old World.  There are a lot of differences between “Old World” and “New World” wines, including the basic issue of what to put into the bottle.  Wines from the “New World” (unpacking that could be another blog post!) are typically made and labeled according to varietal.  These include wines from the United States, Australia, Chile, South Africa, Argentina, etc.  In contrast, “Old World” wines from the classic wine making regions of Europe (France, Italy, Germany, Austria, Spain, etc.) are labeled by Appelation and contain a blend of several different grapes grown in those areas.  Bordeaux, for example, is a geographic area, not a type of grape.  But Bordeaux wines are among the most famous in the world — and are made by blending grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet France, Petit Verdot, and a few others.  The characteristic is that these grapes are grown in the appelation.  Some wineries within these areas are producing “Varietal Wines,” but that is mostly a response to market trends.

I like both Old World and New World wines.  I like both “varietal wine” and “blends.”  I am quickly growing in my appreciation of blended wines.  Bringing the various unique flavors of varietals into a new mix creates some exquisite flavors.  More about this in a later post.

Varietal and Blends, Individualism and Community

As I reflect on this fundamental aspect of wine I am intrigued by the metaphor of “varietal” wines as an expression of individualism and “blends” as an embodiment of community.  The approach to single-varietal wines is to “be the best that you can be” by emphasizing an individual grape’s strengths and uniqueness.  Isn’t it interesting that this is the “New World” approach to winemaking?  We in the United States have been shaped in ways we can’t even imagine by our fundamental commitment to the individual.  So it’s no wonder this is the predominant wine-making style in the U.S.  It is also no surprise that varietal wines sell better in the U.S. than blended wines.  The market drives the artistry of wine making.  And the market is shapes the popularity of wines.  Remember when Zinfandel was THE wine to drink?  We’re on the downward slope of Pinot Noir’s popularity, whose meteoric rise to fame was driven largely by the movie Sideways.

In contrast to the “star-in-the-spotlight” approach to varietal winemaking, blending intentionally combines the unique character of the individual components into a communal expression.  The individual varietals are significant, to be sure, but primarily in their ability to add to the complexity of the whole.  It’s perhaps a more difficult task to craft these wines as it involves creation of both the individual varietals and the skillful artistry of bringing the flavors together.

The metaphor has limits to be sure, but doesn’t this offer a glimpse into our human ways of being individuals and communities?  I am afraid that much of our modern world exploits the “varietal” approach.  We seem to value the achievement of individuals rather than the complexity of blends.

It would be easy to label this as the difference between Capitalism and Socialism.  To be sure, that is one expression of the difference.  But it goes deeper than economic or political ideology.  For me it goes to the heart of who we are.  On one hand personal achievement is a good value.  But it cannot be an end in itself.  There is a lot about me that is pretty good.  I have been crafted into a person whose gifts and talents are used in some good ways.  But I know that not only am I better when I am part of an interconnected community, I am intended to be connected.  My wife and I together are better than either of us individually.  The same is true for the office in which I work.  And it is true for the church community I serve.  And I would suggest that the same is true of all of our human communities.

The problem is that “the market” of our individualism keeps us separated.  We are divided around so many differences — gender, race, sexual orientation, economic level, education, national loyalties, etc.  So many systems and institutions in our world work very hard to keep these divisions in place.

I have a vision for our world and for each of us in it.  I imagine a world in which I can enjoy BOTH a fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon AND a Bordeaux (a varietal and a blend).  Where I can open a bottle of dark, jammy Sirah and be seduced by its oppulence AND where that same Sirah can be part of a complex, multi-layered Chateauneuf du Pape.  We don’t have to live in a world defined by either-or, New World versus Old World, varietal or blend.  There is room in my cellar for all of it…





Theology: Buying Wine By the Label

6 09 2007

They are easy to spot.  They stand about 4 feet away from the rack of bottles in the wine section of the grocery store or even in the wine shop.  The position is indicative — close enough to see the labels, but too far away to actually read them.  They might even pick up a bottle or two for closer inspection, but most often it’s just to check the price (if it’s not printed on the rack below the wine.  Ever notice how big the print is below these bottles?).

These are the people who are choosing their wine by the label.  It is an aesthetic approach to wine.  Sort of.  It’s actually an aesthetic approach to label art.  Sort of.  You see, there is much more to wine label art than beauty.  Marketers figured out a long time ago how to evoke certain feelings by the images placed on a product, or by using certain colors, etc.  Some of the labels are beautiful:

     

   

  

 

Critters are common on labels.  Take a look at these:

   

         

I don’t know about you, but when I think about the aromas and flavors of wine I don’t immediately think of snails, frogs, elephants, cows, lizards, pigs, horses or much of anything from the wild kingdom.  But there are lots of those creatures and a whole lot more adorning the bottles on the store shelves.

 These make me scratch my head…

     

You may not know that there is a problem with ladybugs on grapes and with the wine-making process.  These cute little critters actually have an excretion that, when left on grapes or when (how to say this without grossing you out)… when the bugs get “pressed” along with the grapes… it creates “Ladybug Taint” in the finished wine.  No kidding — these little buggers can (and do) spoil whole vats of wine.  Why would someone advertize with ladybugs???

There are erotic labels, funny labels, and even kid-friendly labels (interesting when you think about it…).  Some have even gone so far as to fake a shape of the bottle and create a story around it — that the wine is aged underground and the weight of the dirt distorts the shape of the bottle over time, or that the bottle resembles the graceful growth of old grape vines.  It even has sprayed on “dirt” (paint) to make it look like the bottle has been extracted from the wine maker’s cellaring cave after a century or so of delicate aging.

This is actually not a horrible wine.  But amid the dozens of Chateauneuf du Pape’s on the shelf, wouldn’t you want THIS one???

And that’s the point.  Marketers are working hard to have you pick THIS wine over THAT wine.  And if an appealing label will make that happen, then their work has paid off.

Have I ever picked wine by the label?  Of course!  Sometimes the wine has been pretty good, too.  Other times… well, the label was nice!

But here’s the point.  The look of the label doesn’t tell you much about what’s on the inside.  I know a lot of people who have shopped for dates or romance by “label shopping.”  And as much as we might not want to admit it, in our culture looks matter.  And boy doesn’t that contradict virtually every gospel value that we consider.  We know not to judge books by their covers, but how about the person we want as our leader, or spokesperson, or partner, or self?

The best wines I’ve had in my life have pretty unremarkable labels.  But pop the cork, look at the beauty of the hues that emerge, take in the aromas of mature wine, and taste the layers of character and depth in each sip.  Those are the wines I hope to enjoy each time I open a bottle.  And they are the wines I want to share with my friends.

I think those wines have something to teach us about the labels we use — whether to make decisions about wine… or people.