Martha Stewart Makes Wine (not!)

20 09 2007

 

There has been an announcement in the wine world that Martha Stewart has entered into an agreement with E&J Gallo to bottle wine for her under the label “Martha Stewart Vintage.”  Check out these stories about this news:  Tom Wark’s Fermentation and the San Francisco Chronicle.

 I am fascinated by this collaboration.  This kind of practice in the wine world is nothing new — wine makers make wine for other people’s labels all the time.  The good folks at Trader Joe’s are making a mint off the enormous volume of sales of it’s Charles Shaw wines (aka “Two Buck Chuck”) — wine that is made by the Bronco Wine Company.  The Charles Shaw wines purport to be from Napa (check out the label sometime), but the grapes are actually grown in the much-less-desirable Central Valley of California.  Think Bakersfield.  And the bottle says “Charles Shaw,” not Bronco Wines.  And it would be misleading to assume this only affects “low end” wine and wineries.  Even the biggest name wineries engage in this lucrative practice.  It happens throughout the wine world.

The Martha Stewart announcement provides a helpful lens, though, for some reflection on this practice and its implications beyond the world of wine.  This is rich ground for musing — I love this!  Wine as a commodity.  Wine as a product.  Wine as a pawn in the world of commerce.  The art of winemaking reduced to signatures on a contract.  I can see a new reality TV show in the making… Martha Stewart Vineyard versus Two Buck Chuck.  I’d watch just to see the divas actually drink what’s in the bottles that bear their names!

But there is more to this story than just the raw commerce of it all. There is something about character and the character of wine. The wines labeled “Martha Stewart Vineyard” will NOT be from Martha’s Vineyard (so to speak). The illusion is that they will bear the sophistication of the cashmere sweater and pressed linen napkins of a Martha Stewart afternoon tea. But there is no authenticity. It is a fraud. It lacks integrity. It’s plagiarism — the signature on the artist’s canvas had nothing to do with the creation of the art (even if the art, as in this case, is like mass-produced “Velvet Elvis” prints that can be purchased at any flea market). But it’s intentional — Martha (rather, the Martha Industry) will want her consumers to assume the wine is of her own making.

Perhaps the charitable thing to do would be to wish Martha well, and to join in a chorus of “cheers!” with those who will drink her (er, I mean Gallo’s) wine. But then I myself would be inauthentic.

More thoughts about this later…





Words on Wine

14 09 2007

There are lots of words about wine on the web.  I’m doing my part to add to those missives, though I have to hope that I am adding QUALITY, not just quantity.  There are words reflecting on wine, wine culture, wine production, wine sales, and of course on wines themselves.  Lots of words.

I’m beginning the process of building my collection of links to other wine blogs.  Check out some of the blogs that I’m reading — they’re over there on the right side.  Just don’t decide that you like one of those better than WineMinistry.com!!!  Actually, a couple of things I like about the wine community:

– There are some great writers in the blogosphere, and I love it when people from different walks of life and different perspectives offer their thoughts to the world.

– There are lots of different opinions, and by exposing ourselves to those opinions we gain something (even when we don’t agree).

– There is generally an openness in people who are passionate about wine, and that is refreshing in a culture when we get divided too easily into left-right, either-or, red-white…

– I could go on and on, but the bottom line is that there is some good reading to be had.  Let me know if you’ve got some favorites that aren’t listed here.  I haven’t put all of my favorites up yet, and I am always looking for more…

Enjoy the reading.  Enjoy the community!





2005 Montes Malbec Reserve Oak Aged

9 09 2007

 

This review is posted in honor of my friends Kathi and David who are serving a congregation in Santiago, Chile.

2005 Montes Malbec Reserve Oak Aged
Chile, Central Valley, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley

Wine Rating:  88

Uncorked: 2007.03.30

Malbec is a grape that was traditionally used in Bordeaux blends in France, but has come to its own fame as Argentina’s most important varietal.  While known as Argintina’s wine, Malbec has also found its way into Chile and other wine areas of the Americas.  It’s a fairly “big” wine that stands up well to a variety of foods.  It has become one of my favorite wines to serve with anything from grilled steaks to burgers and even tacos.

This wine is a Chilean Malbec, and a pretty good representative of the varietal.  It’s yummy! It’s a dark wine in every way — dark color, dark aromas, and dark flavors.  In the glass it is beautiful in its deep ruby color.  The nose was a bit thinner than I expected, but presented with ripe fruit and a touch of smoke.  In the mouth it is definitely “big” — a mouthful of flavors and textures.  It is full-bodied with deep, dark, plum flavors along side blackberry, black cherry, licorice, and leather.  It finishes a bit tannic.

Excellent value.

$9.99  Cost Plus World Market





Blends: Community in a Bottle?

7 09 2007

Red Wine Art Print by Judi Bagnato

Are “Varietal Wines” a reflection of individualism?  Are “Blends” an embodiment of community? 

A quick wine education:

Varietal Wine.  A varietal wine is one made primarily with a single type of grape.  Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are a few examples of the plethora of specific grape varieties that are made into wine.  In the U.S. a wine must be made from at least 75% of the primary grape to be labeled with that grape varietal name.  Different grapes have unique flavors and aromas.  A Zinfandel (NOT the pink variety), for example, is characteristically peppery along with its wild fruit flavors.  Sauvignon Blanc is usually herbal with citrus overtones.

Blends.  In contrast to wines made from a single varietal, a blend is made from several different grape types.  There are a couple of different types of blends.  Varietal Combinations are made from two or three grapes and labeled according to the identity of the components:  Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz or Charonnay-Semillion are two popular combinations from Australia.  Another type of blend is the artisan blend which turns the winemaker into artist whose palate includes various types of wines that can be combined into a unique blend with a creative name to match.  “Meritage” is one of these blends that is reflective of the style of winemaking from the Bordeaux region of France.  It is interesting that some of the cheapest wine and some of the most expensive wines are blends.

New World and Old World.  There are a lot of differences between “Old World” and “New World” wines, including the basic issue of what to put into the bottle.  Wines from the “New World” (unpacking that could be another blog post!) are typically made and labeled according to varietal.  These include wines from the United States, Australia, Chile, South Africa, Argentina, etc.  In contrast, “Old World” wines from the classic wine making regions of Europe (France, Italy, Germany, Austria, Spain, etc.) are labeled by Appelation and contain a blend of several different grapes grown in those areas.  Bordeaux, for example, is a geographic area, not a type of grape.  But Bordeaux wines are among the most famous in the world — and are made by blending grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet France, Petit Verdot, and a few others.  The characteristic is that these grapes are grown in the appelation.  Some wineries within these areas are producing “Varietal Wines,” but that is mostly a response to market trends.

I like both Old World and New World wines.  I like both “varietal wine” and “blends.”  I am quickly growing in my appreciation of blended wines.  Bringing the various unique flavors of varietals into a new mix creates some exquisite flavors.  More about this in a later post.

Varietal and Blends, Individualism and Community

As I reflect on this fundamental aspect of wine I am intrigued by the metaphor of “varietal” wines as an expression of individualism and “blends” as an embodiment of community.  The approach to single-varietal wines is to “be the best that you can be” by emphasizing an individual grape’s strengths and uniqueness.  Isn’t it interesting that this is the “New World” approach to winemaking?  We in the United States have been shaped in ways we can’t even imagine by our fundamental commitment to the individual.  So it’s no wonder this is the predominant wine-making style in the U.S.  It is also no surprise that varietal wines sell better in the U.S. than blended wines.  The market drives the artistry of wine making.  And the market is shapes the popularity of wines.  Remember when Zinfandel was THE wine to drink?  We’re on the downward slope of Pinot Noir’s popularity, whose meteoric rise to fame was driven largely by the movie Sideways.

In contrast to the “star-in-the-spotlight” approach to varietal winemaking, blending intentionally combines the unique character of the individual components into a communal expression.  The individual varietals are significant, to be sure, but primarily in their ability to add to the complexity of the whole.  It’s perhaps a more difficult task to craft these wines as it involves creation of both the individual varietals and the skillful artistry of bringing the flavors together.

The metaphor has limits to be sure, but doesn’t this offer a glimpse into our human ways of being individuals and communities?  I am afraid that much of our modern world exploits the “varietal” approach.  We seem to value the achievement of individuals rather than the complexity of blends.

It would be easy to label this as the difference between Capitalism and Socialism.  To be sure, that is one expression of the difference.  But it goes deeper than economic or political ideology.  For me it goes to the heart of who we are.  On one hand personal achievement is a good value.  But it cannot be an end in itself.  There is a lot about me that is pretty good.  I have been crafted into a person whose gifts and talents are used in some good ways.  But I know that not only am I better when I am part of an interconnected community, I am intended to be connected.  My wife and I together are better than either of us individually.  The same is true for the office in which I work.  And it is true for the church community I serve.  And I would suggest that the same is true of all of our human communities.

The problem is that “the market” of our individualism keeps us separated.  We are divided around so many differences — gender, race, sexual orientation, economic level, education, national loyalties, etc.  So many systems and institutions in our world work very hard to keep these divisions in place.

I have a vision for our world and for each of us in it.  I imagine a world in which I can enjoy BOTH a fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon AND a Bordeaux (a varietal and a blend).  Where I can open a bottle of dark, jammy Sirah and be seduced by its oppulence AND where that same Sirah can be part of a complex, multi-layered Chateauneuf du Pape.  We don’t have to live in a world defined by either-or, New World versus Old World, varietal or blend.  There is room in my cellar for all of it…





2004 Bonny Doon Vineyard Big House Red

6 09 2007

2004 Bonny Doon Vineyard Big House Red
USA, California

Wine Rating:  85

Uncorked: 2007.07.26, 2007.08.03

This one never disappoints — just a simple red table wine. Could be better, but could also be a lot worse. The nose is very fruity with grapes and raspberries. In the mouth it’s a bit jammy with lots of fruit — cherries, raspberries, and plums. The Petite Sirah comes through in this vitage with hints of licorice and peppery spice.  But it’s more than a mouthful of fruit — this wine has enough tannins to add some balance.  Nothing fancy or complex, but always enjoyable.  And it’s a great value — lots of wine for this price.

$6.99





Theology: Buying Wine By the Label

6 09 2007

They are easy to spot.  They stand about 4 feet away from the rack of bottles in the wine section of the grocery store or even in the wine shop.  The position is indicative — close enough to see the labels, but too far away to actually read them.  They might even pick up a bottle or two for closer inspection, but most often it’s just to check the price (if it’s not printed on the rack below the wine.  Ever notice how big the print is below these bottles?).

These are the people who are choosing their wine by the label.  It is an aesthetic approach to wine.  Sort of.  It’s actually an aesthetic approach to label art.  Sort of.  You see, there is much more to wine label art than beauty.  Marketers figured out a long time ago how to evoke certain feelings by the images placed on a product, or by using certain colors, etc.  Some of the labels are beautiful:

     

   

  

 

Critters are common on labels.  Take a look at these:

   

         

I don’t know about you, but when I think about the aromas and flavors of wine I don’t immediately think of snails, frogs, elephants, cows, lizards, pigs, horses or much of anything from the wild kingdom.  But there are lots of those creatures and a whole lot more adorning the bottles on the store shelves.

 These make me scratch my head…

     

You may not know that there is a problem with ladybugs on grapes and with the wine-making process.  These cute little critters actually have an excretion that, when left on grapes or when (how to say this without grossing you out)… when the bugs get “pressed” along with the grapes… it creates “Ladybug Taint” in the finished wine.  No kidding — these little buggers can (and do) spoil whole vats of wine.  Why would someone advertize with ladybugs???

There are erotic labels, funny labels, and even kid-friendly labels (interesting when you think about it…).  Some have even gone so far as to fake a shape of the bottle and create a story around it — that the wine is aged underground and the weight of the dirt distorts the shape of the bottle over time, or that the bottle resembles the graceful growth of old grape vines.  It even has sprayed on “dirt” (paint) to make it look like the bottle has been extracted from the wine maker’s cellaring cave after a century or so of delicate aging.

This is actually not a horrible wine.  But amid the dozens of Chateauneuf du Pape’s on the shelf, wouldn’t you want THIS one???

And that’s the point.  Marketers are working hard to have you pick THIS wine over THAT wine.  And if an appealing label will make that happen, then their work has paid off.

Have I ever picked wine by the label?  Of course!  Sometimes the wine has been pretty good, too.  Other times… well, the label was nice!

But here’s the point.  The look of the label doesn’t tell you much about what’s on the inside.  I know a lot of people who have shopped for dates or romance by “label shopping.”  And as much as we might not want to admit it, in our culture looks matter.  And boy doesn’t that contradict virtually every gospel value that we consider.  We know not to judge books by their covers, but how about the person we want as our leader, or spokesperson, or partner, or self?

The best wines I’ve had in my life have pretty unremarkable labels.  But pop the cork, look at the beauty of the hues that emerge, take in the aromas of mature wine, and taste the layers of character and depth in each sip.  Those are the wines I hope to enjoy each time I open a bottle.  And they are the wines I want to share with my friends.

I think those wines have something to teach us about the labels we use — whether to make decisions about wine… or people.





2001 Creekside Estate Winery Laura’s Blend Meritage

5 09 2007

2001 Creekside Estate Winery Laura’s Blend Meritage
Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara Peninsula VQA

Wine Rating:  89

Uncorked: 2007.07.04   served with grilled burgers

Another wine discovery from Canada’s Niagara Peninsula — a region I have recently discovered and enjoyed. This “Meritage” is a Bordeaux-style blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Merlot. It is almost sparkly in its deep ruby color. The nose is pretty big with cherry and dark plum aromas, with subtle tones of tobacco, chocolate and cedar. In the mouth it has lots of cherry and dried cranberry fruit with an earthy, woody spice and loamy richness. It is very round in the mouth. Layers of flavor come to life as the wine opens up. The oak is solid, the tannins are substantial, but it’s all in balance. It’s an interesting blend of old world earthiness and new world fruitiness. I like the wine very much, and continue to be surprised by this region’s qualilty wine offerings.

$15.61 [US]   Purchased at the Creekside Estate Winery

Creekside Estate Winery Website





2005 Creekside Estate Winery Laura White

5 09 2007

2005 Creekside Estate Winery Laura White
Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara Peninsula VQA

Wine Rating:  88

Uncorked: 2007.05.04

This is another bottle from our trip back in April to the Niagara Peninsula wine country.  I continue to be amused that I wasn’t aware of these wines, and amazed at their quality.  This is a hidden jewel!  Creekside Estate Winery (not to be confused with Creek Side Winery in North Carolina) was one of my favorites.  It’s unusual that there are two winemakers here that work in concert with one another — Canadian Rob Power and Australian Craig McDonald.  There is definitely an Aussie influence that McDonald contributes to these wines.  We’ll most certainly be heading back to Canada for some more of this experience!

The Laura White is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (49%), Chardonnay (48%), and Viognier(3%).  It’s a good choice to drink on a perfect Spring or Summer evening with grilled salmon. The nose is light with hints of field grass and pale wildflowers, apples and lemon peel.  The chardonnay adds depth to the palate that presents with green apple, pears, and hints of peach (probably from the Viognier).  Soft oak undertones.  Finished with a bit of a stemmy taste, but not off-putting.  Nice warm-day sipper.

$15.61 [US]  Purchased at the Creekside Estate Winery

Creekside Estate Winery Website





2004 Snoqualmie Vineyards Riesling Naked

2 09 2007

Snoqualmie

2004 Snoqualmie Vineyards Riesling Naked
USA, Washington, Columbia Valley

Wine Rating:  87

Uncorked: 2007.09.02   Served with grilled chicken, veggies

I’ve had this wine a few times before, and I am surprised that I like it as well as I do. It’s not extraordinarily complex, it’s just a simple, fruity, tasty wine for a warm afternoon on the deck. “Made with organically grown grapes” is emblazened on the label. Most of the “organic” wines I’ve had (what exactly IS “organic” wine?) are less than memorable. This one, however, remains on my “that’s a decent wine” list. So it came out from the cellar tonight to accompany the grilled chicken and veggies for dinner on the back deck.

The nose is fragrant but somewhat flat — mostly mango and soft lemon. It’s flavors are right up front in the mouth, though. While not a sweet wine, it’s on the sweet-fruit side of Riesling. Citrus continues in the flavors along with the mango hints. A little bit of wildflower hints mixed in. It’s got a soft mouth feel, though ends with a citrus zest tartness that is quite pleasing. While it’s not a typical Riesling, it’s a very pleasant drinking wine.

$9.99  Cost Plus World Market





2006 Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc

1 09 2007

Monkey Bay SB

2006 Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

Wine Rating:  84

Uncorked: 2007.08.31  Dinner Prep and Cooking Use – Shellfish Feast

I drank half the bottle while cooking, and used the other half to steam a feast of shellfish — king crab legs, mussels, shrimp, and scallops. It was delightful for both roles, but frankly made an excellent liquid and sauce for the seafood.

Light hay-colored Sauvignon Blanc. Typical of Marlborough SBs, there is a distinct straw/grassy aroma and taste in this wine. The nose also included some pineapple, citrus peel, and hints of a fresh barnyard — some reviewers refer to this fleeting aroma as “cat pee.” It’s descriptive! Nothing of this offense continues in the mouth, though. Straight-up New Zealand SB here. Flavors of grapefruit, pineapple, lemon grass, and slightly sweet floral hints. The finish was tart and quick. While this bottle was a gift, I’ve seen the price and it is a good value.

$9.99





2004 Lucas & Lewellen Viognier

1 09 2007

L&L Viognier

2004 Lucas & Lewellen Viognier
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

Wine Rating:  88

Uncorked: 2007.08.31  Dinner on the Deck – served with shellfish feast

This versitile wine has an effusive nose — aromas of honeysuckle, apricot, and grapefruit. Slightly golden hues made it a pretty wine in the glass, too. In the mouth it carried the citrus flavors nicely along with a hint of slightly sweet apricot or honey. A bit of herbal spice and grassiness, particularly on the moderate finish. I served it with a shellfish feast — a bowl full of king crab legs, mussels, shrimp and scallops in a white wine-butter-garlic sauce (with some good cayenne thrown in for interest!). The wine was a perfect match offering enough tartness and acid to stand up to the buttery richness of the food. It was an excellent light meal on the back deck, and the wine was a great addition to the feast.

$19.99